OWEN Nox
THE LIBRARY
OF
THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA
LOS ANGELES
.
THE STRANGER'S STORY. (See page 115.)
SOUTHERN RAMBLES
FLORIDA,
BY
OWEN NOX.
BOSTON:
A. WILLIAMS & COMPANY.
1881.
COPYRIGHT,
1831,
BY ALFRED MVDGE & SON
PREFACE.
EVERY book should have a preface ; not that it
adds in any way to the value of the work, but it
gives it an air of respectability.
o. N.
CONTEXTS.
PAGE
«2 CHAPTER I. — THE START 11
ui
CHAPTER II. —SAVANNAH 26
2c CHAPTER III. — JACKSONVILLE 38
or
3 CHAPTER IV. — JACKSONVILLE (CONTINUED) . . 48
CHAPTER V. — JACKSONVILLE (CONTINUED) . ' . 52
M
^ CHAPTER VI. — JACKSONVILLE (CONCLUDED) . . 61
g CHAPTER VII. — PILOT TOWN 69
CHAPTER VIII. —UP THE ST. JOHN'S 76
CHAPTER IX.— DEER HUNTING 88
CHAPTER X. — LIFE AT ENTERPRISE 96
!> CHAPTER XL— THE STRANGER'S STORY . ... 108
•
w CHAPTER XII. — THE WILDERNESS 120
CHAPTER XIII. - DEEP CREEK 128
< -
CHAPTER XIV. — ST. AUGUSTINE 138
460005
SOUTHERN RAMBLES.
CHAPTER I.
THE START.
IN the winter of 1877 I contracted a severe
cold, and as I had always desired to go South,
persuaded my-
self that I was
going into con-
sumption and
that my health
required me to
go to Florida.
I consulted a
number of doc-
tors, and they
all agreed that
it would un-
doubtedly benefit me to leave Boston for a while,
but none of them seemed to think a trip to
12 SOUTHERN KAMBLES.
Florida necessary; some of them even spoke
lightly about my cold, and after thumping me on
the chest for a few minutes and listening for the
echo,J;old me that my lungs were as strong as a
horse's.
Of course they were quacks, and did not know
their business; so I put no trust in what they
said, but kept on visiting doctor after doctor
until I struck one at last who seemed to under-
stand my case. After going through the usual
exercises, he asked what was the matter with me.
I told him I thought it would be dangerous for
me to stay in a cold climate all winter, and had
an idea that a trip to Florida would benefit my
health. He said he thought it would be the best
thing I could do. I told him I thought I should
like to go soon, and asked him if it would not
be advisable to get away at once. He replied
emphatically that it would, and closed our inter-
view in these words: "My dear sir, although
there are no symptoms of actual consumption,
yet, as you already have a cold, and as ?an
ounce of prevention,' etc., etc., there can be no
THE START.
13
question but what a change of climate could
not be otherwise than beneficial. Five dollars,
please ! Thanks. Good morning ! "
On my way home I met Jack . Upon
learning of my intended Southern trip, he ex-
pressed a desire to accompany me. We dined
together, and before we parted it was definitely
arranged to leave the city on the following
Thursday.
The next few days were spent in buying a long
list of things which Jack said we should need.
We purchased all the books we could find which
had anything to say about Florida; and the more
14 SOUTHERN KAMBLES.
we read, the more anxious we became to visit the
wonderful scenes which the authors described.
All of them agreed in one thing, if they differed
in everything else : the climate was like one
eternal spring. Fruit of all kinds grew every-
where, and was so plenty that the inhabitants
were glad to have visitors walk about and pick
it off the trees. It was a paradise for hunters;
game of all kinds abounded, and the fishing was
magnificent. I admired those books before I
visited Florida; I admired them more afterwards.
One of them was a gorgeously gotten-up affair,
in paper covers, which reeked with illustrations
of tropical scenery. Some of the author's de-
scriptions fired us with especial admiration.
Jack always carried one of those books with
him, and whenever we visited one of the places
described, he pulled it out of his pocket and read
some of it. I got so at last that I dreaded to
visit a place that I remembered to have read
about. I could tell when it was coming. Jack
would grow restless, and say, w Let me read you
something concerning this place, — it is interest-
THE START. 15
ing"; and then he would drag out some infernal
maniac's diary and commence. He never com-
mented on what he read, but would hunt soberly
, for the page, and then commence and read it
from beginning to end without a stop, — without
a smile, — always the same drawling intonation
and maudlin expression, until the last word was
read ; then his face cleared, and a load seemed to
be lifted from his mind. He said he liked to get
information about the places which he visited.
It has been claimed that the English language
is inadequate to convey to the mind a correct
idea of an especially beautiful scene. I per-
ceived this to be a fact; for the ideas which we
had formed of places after reading those descrip-
tions differed somewhat from our opinions con-
cerning them upon our return home.
The day soon arrived when we were to start,
and nothing unusual transpired in consequence
of the grand event. The city was quiet when
we left. This was caused, I suppose, by our
departure being somewhat sudden, and its not
having got noised abroad that we intended to
16
SOUTHERN" RAMBLES.
leave. Jack was in the best of spirits at the
thought of visiting a Southern climate and en-
joying some of the splendid shooting he had
heard so much about. Our cargo of implements
and ammunition was safely housed in the bag-
gage car; and as the train slowly moved out of
the depot into the darkness of the night, we felt
that our trip had fairly commenced. We were
still in a civilized country, so we slept well,
and upon awakening in the morning found our-
selves in New York. After breakfasting at the
"Union" we procured a team and drove down
THE START. 17
to the steamer to take a look at the state-room
which was to be our quarters until the steamer
arrived in Savannah. There appeared to be a
delightful uncertainty as to the time of her
arrival at her destination. The ticket agent had „
said three days at the longest. I have always
admired that man. I found out afterwards that
he had been employed by that line for years, and
knew the running time of the boats by heart;
and he knew that the old tub on which he smil-
ingly saw us take passage had never been known
to go anywhere in three days in the memory of
man. Last year, while they were taking up a
subscription in aid of the yellow-fever suiferers,
I heard that this man was detained in a locality
where the disease was raging. I then withheld
my subscription ; but he came back safe, — they
always do, — and during my last visit to New
York I met him. He was as smiling as ever,
and actually had the audacity to ask me if I was
not going South again soon. I did not tell him
that the only thing that would induce me to
think of it would be his funeral celebration. But
18 SOUTHERN RAMBLES.
I wander from the subject. The captain thought
to make the passage in three days, if we had
good weather. He had hoped to do that same
thing for years, and if he only lives long enough
he may do it yet ; but not on that boat.
We were to have sailed at three o'clock in the
afternoon; but it was midnight before we cast
oif and steamed slowly down the harbor. It
was a beautiful night, but too cold to remain on
deck, so I sought the cabin in the hopes of get-
ting a look at my fellow-passengers. A number
of ladies and gentlemen were on board, and the
cabin presented quite a lively appearance.
Picking out a philanthropic-looking old gen-
tleman, I found a seat near him, and after having
glanced casually at the other passengers for a
moment or two to give him a chance to open the
conversation, remarked, —
" Fine weather."
He dropped his chin, and looked at me over
his spectacles.
T Yes. Going to Savannah? "
I intimated that I was, unless the steamer
THE START.
19
stopped suddenly on the way, which I hoped
would not be the case.
ft Fine place, Savannah ; lived there off and on
for the last twelve years. Been there before? "
"No."
"Family on board?"
20 SOUTHERN RAMBLES.
"No."
"Live in New York?"
"No."
" Boston man, perhaps ? "
^
Before I could answer him, some good instinct
prompted the steward to ask if a valise and
shawl which were lying on the table belonged
to him; and while he was describing the person
who had left them there, I managed to slip
away unobserved.
In the smoking-room I found Jack, who hailed
me with, " Well, old boy, we are off at last " ; and
after delivering this piece of valuable informa-
tion, settled himself in his chair, looking the pic-
ture of contentment. A slight rocking motion
was perceptible, as by this time we were getting
pretty well out to sea. Several young fellows
on the other side of the room apparently felt it
too; for two of them grew slightly pale, and
throwing away their cigars, remarked that it was
" about time to turn in," an attempt at sea slang
which, coming from their whitening lips, sounded
almost ghastly.
THE START. 21
An hour later, when we descended to the
cabin, we found it deserted save a sleepy stew-
ard, who only roused himself long enough to
inquire if we wanted anything. We made our
way to our state-room, and by careful balancing
managed to undress. Watching my chance, I
jumped skilfully into the berth, taking all the
skin oif my knees on a board which had been
placed at the side of the bed, ostensibly to pre-
vent the occupant from rolling out, but in reality
to cause untold anguish and suffering to the
unwary passenger. I lay there gritting my
teeth, for I would not have had Jack know it
for the world; but my feelings were somewhat
soothed a few minutes later by seeing him, while
trying to remove his under-garments, loosen his
hold on a hook to which he had been clinging,
and a roll of the vessel caused him to sit down
suddenly, taking the stool with him. The upper
berth had fallen to his lot, and while climbing
into it another lurch assisted him with a sudden-
ness which was probably unexpected ; for a dull
sound from above, followed by unintelligible
22
SOUTHERN RAMBLES.
mutterings, convinced me that he was either
saying his prayers, or had tried to butt down
" CAUSED HIM TO SIT DOWN.
THE START. 23
the side of the state-room, and was thinking it
over.
Life on board a steamer is necessarily monoto-
nous, and during the passage nothing occurred
worthy of mention. Everything went along as
smoothly as possible except the vessel, whose
progress was anything but smooth. I believe
the company expects three fourths of the pas-
sengers to average one meal a day, and are
greatly vexed if the weather happens to be so
fine as to allow those passengers who are un-
used to the sea to take their meals regularly.
To pass away the time the u.sual games were
indulged in, and the usual ennui was felt by
everybody except Jack. He had insisted on
taking an extra w sea chair " along with him, and
I now perceived his reasons for so doing.
Almost as soon as we were fairly under way he
commenced operations. Jack's modus operandi
were as follows: He generally kept his chair
and the extra one chained together, so that they
could not be used by any one without his permis-
sion. After breakfast he promenaded the deck,
watching the other passengers as they straggled
out one by one, their pale faces showing how
much they were enjoying the passage. After
eying them with a critical glance, he would pick
out the prettiest young girl he could see, and
then walk deliberately up to her and offer her
his chair. Of course this opened a chance for
conversation, and generally ended by the chair
being accepted, and the acquaintance of the
young lady formed. If she happened to be
accompanied by her mamma, he would offer her
THE STABT. 25
his own chair, and watch his chance to get
hold of mine. His "brilliant conversational
powers," as the girls have it, usually charmed
the mammas, and after that the way was clear.
He seemed to enjoy himself greatly, and became
a perfect lion among the ladies. It was pleasing
to me, too, to observe the peaceful expression of
contentment which overspread his features after
he had told some more than usually outrageous
lie and saw that he was believed.
CHAPTER H.
/
SAVANNAH.
morning when I went on deck, I found
that we had crossed the bar and were slowly
steaming up the beautiful Savannah River ; for
it is a beautiful river. Its clear water resembles
coffee as much as anything else; perhaps it
would be better to say that it resembles a weak
solution of very poor coffee. On either side, the
river was bounded by a thick growth of reeds,
and the only redeeming feature were the numer-
ous flock of birds, which ever and anon rose
and fluttered about for a moment, filling the air
with their fresh and varied melody. (Patent
applied for.)
As we neared the city we passed numbers of
small boats containing negroes, evidently in pur-
suit of the ducks and other water birds which
were constantly flying about. All the passen-
SAVANNAH. 27
gers were assembled on the forward deck, enjoy-
ing the view and their first experience of a
Southern climate. It was a beautiful warm day
even for Savannah, and the whole company was
in high spirits.
After we had landed and got comfortably
settled, in a really good hotel, Jack and I started
out for a walk. Our first impression of the city
was not as favorable as I could have wished.
Everybody we met appeared to have a resigned
look of contentment. The city was as quiet as
one of our !N~ew England towns on Sunday.
After walking for some time, and not seeing any-
thing worth seeing, we perceived a female figure
coming up the street on the opposite side. Jack
crossed over and sauntered along with his hands
in pockets until she had passed. Then he re-
crossed the street to where I was standing, and
as he came up I perceived a look of disgust on
his features which was not there when he had
left me.
I ventured to inquire if she was pretty.
Apparently he thought this was adding insult
28
SOUTHERN" KAMBLES.
to injury, for he looked me straight in the eyes
for a moment, and then fired out his words as
SAVANNAH. 29
though a steel spring was concealed in his
throat : —
"Pretty! forty years old, and cross-eyed.
Thunder and lightning! talk to me about your
Southern beauties."
"I am sorry that your first experience has
been so unsatisfactory; but still it was an
episode — "
f ? Episode ' ! Nonsense ! Hyena ' is what you
are trying to think of; but I forgot you did n't
see it as close as I did."
He was evidently disturbed, and it was not
until we had returned to the hotel and had
become interested in a game of billiards that
his face cleared, and he resumed his usual ex-
pression of imbecility.
One day in Savannah was all that we could
stand, and it was hard work to do even that.
It was pleasant enough to feel yourself once
more on dry ground; but we had experienced
that novelty before, and wanted something be-
sides earth to amuse us. There is plenty to
amuse a stranger in Savannah, if he goes around
30 SOUTHERN RAMBLES.
quietly and does not try to do everything in a
hurry. A person may find amusement any-
where, if he only looks for it; and people differ
in their tastes. It is a fine place for consump-
tives. If they do not recover in a few months,
their mind has become calm; they do not dread
death.
After dinner we held a consultation, and de-
cided to start for Jacksonville that afternoon.
Accordingly, we procured our tickets, and shortly
after were arranging ourselves as comfortably as
possible for the all-night ride before us. "We had
engaged seats in the only drawing-room car con-
nected with the train, and it looked as though
we were going to have a pleasant trip of it.
Almost immediately after the train started, the
car in which we were seated bounced around so
that it was impossible to read without injury to
the eyes ; so after one or two attempts we gave
it up, and fishing out a pack of cards from one
of the bags, we repaired to the rear of the car,
and bribed the conductor to bring us a substi-
tute for a table in the shape of a piece of board,
SAVANNAH.
31
which we rested on our knees. The motion
caused the cards to slip around and mix them-
selves up in the most aggravating manner, so
that a very few minutes convinced us that the
work was greater than the amusement.
Jack was sleepy, and arranged himself com-
fortably for a doze,
while I commenced
reading again; but I
soon gave that up for
the greater amusement
of watching Jack's ac-
tions. He had leaned
his head on his hand,
with his elbow rest-
ing on the sill of the
window, and was no
doubt quite comfort-
able for a few min-
utes ; but soon the mo-
tion of the car caused
the sharp edge of the sill to cut into his arm,
and he changed his position, but did not im-
32 SOUTHERN" RAMBLES.
prove it. The sill was wide, and so to rest his
head against the glass caused his neck to assume
a position at right angles with his body. In a
few moments this position evidently became irk-
some, for he again changed it. This time he
muttered something to himself, and sitting bolt
upright rested his head upon the back of the
seat. The jarring of the car soon caused the
screw-heads on the top to bore themselves into
the base of his skull in a manner not conducive
to comfort. After this he gave it up in disgust,
but cheered up somewhat when the conductor
passed through the cars and announced that we
stopped for supper at the next station.
When the train stopped we left the car and
walked across a platform to the hotel, where we
were greeted by a woman who was standing on
the porch with a vigorous salute from a bell
which she held in her hand, and which had evi-
dently been used as a cow-bell previous to the
establishment of the " hotel." Entering a large
room we seated ourselves, together with a num-
ber of our fellow-passengers, around a smal'
SAVAJSXAH. 33
table, and a voluptuous female of uncertain age
demanded if we would have coffee or tea. We
took coffee; and right here let me warn all
future generations against ordering coffee on
that road. Coffee is good in its way ; but the
flavor of last year's beans does not improve it.
I was glad I tried it, for otherwise I might have
visited that place in future years, when I might
have been in poor health, and I shudder to think
of the consequences.
They gave us eggs and some slabs of meat.
There was some yellow stuff in a dish, which I
observed several of the passengers putting on
their bread. I could not imagine what it was,
and asked the v. f. of u. a. to name it. She
cast on me a glance expressive of pity and con-
tempt, and explained that it was w butter."
Jack tried it once (once is not often), and after
looking at it for some time in silence and thought,
remarked that some instinct told him that the
person who prepared it was a woman of ad-
vanced years. I did not ask him to explain, and
he maintained a mysterious silence on the sub-
34
SOUTHERN" RAMBLES.
ject afterwards. The cravings of hunger being
satisfied, we repaired to the platform and walked
SAVANNAH. 35
about until the conductor came to us and told us
that the train was about to start. He then
hunted up the engineer, and as that worthy
entered the engine coop we climbed into the car
and made our way to our seats.
Soon after, being somewhat sleepy, we ordered
the porter to make up our berths, and undressing
ourselves we retired. I fondly believed that my
troubles for that night were finished, but I was
mistaken. Lying upon my side, I tried to sleep,
but as my head resting on the pillow did not
move much, and as my body resting on the hard
bed did move a great deal, the position soon be-
came irksome. The human neck is a gigantic
failure as a substitute for a hinge.
During some of the sudden jumps which the
car took, I flew up and caressed the upper berth,
and by the natural laws of gravity my return to
the bed was more forcible than pleasant. Still I
came to enjoy a Southern country, and I was
enjoying it to my heart's content. A minister in
the berth opposite me was evidently enjoying it
too. I knew he was a minister, for he was
36 SOUTHERN RAMBLES.
saying his prayers. He usually finished every
sentence with the name of his Creator. During
one of the sudden jumps he got as far as "Oh,"
as he soared upward, and the word w God " was
jerked out of him as he returned to his berth in
a most awful and blasphemous manner.
I must have dropped asleep soon after this,
for I dreamed that I was rolling down the side
of a mountain, and kept rolling, rolling, until I
became insensible. I was awakened at daylight
from an uneasy sleep by the jolting of the car,
and dressing myself, repaired to the back plat-
form. There I found Jack and the minister.
Jack was smoking a cigar in a gloomy manner,
and seemed displeased at something; and upon
my asking him if he had passed a good night,
he merely snorted, and kept on puffing away in
silence.
It Vas early morning, and the dew had not
yet dried on the leaves. The woods on either
side of us glistened and sparkled as if covered
with precious gems. We were passing through
a vast forest of pines, and from the branches of
SAVANNAH. 37
the giant trees hung great quantities of Spanish
moss, giving the woods a very picturesque
appearance. Every few minutes we passed
along the borders of small ponds, frightening
ducks and herons from their hiding-places with
the rush and roar of the train * as we whirled by
them. The morning air was fresh and cool,
and we enjoyed the view until we entered Jack-
sonville at a little after nine o'clock, strange to
say only one hour and a half behind time.
* The above sentence is good. Any one who has travelled on
Southern railroads will appreciate it. " Bush and roar of the
train" is exceptionally fine.
460005
CHAPTER in.
JACKSONVILLE.
JACKSONVILLE, city of eternal summer, how
we had longed to see it; how we had longed
to bask in its shady groves, and breathe its
pure air ! Visions of sparkling springs gurgling
through the fresh, sweet-scented verdure, over-
hung by swaying palmettos, had haunted our
thoughts ever since we had left the North. In
our dreams we had fancied ourselves reclining
beneath the shade of some sweet-scented orange-
tree, eating the ripe fruit which hung about us
gleaming like gold in the splendor of a Southern
twilight, while birds of many kinds and bright
plumage flitted around us, filling the air with
their fresh and varied melody. I say we had
dreamed all this, and I do not regret it. It is
sweet to dream.
Entering a stage-coach, we were driven to the
JACKSONVILLE. 39
St. James Hotel, and after half an hour's hard
work, with the aid of quantities of soap and
water, we nearly regained our natural color, and
donning some clean clothes descended to the
dining-room, and had a really good breakfast.
Jack became quite cheerful, and kept up a
running fire of conversation with an elderly
party who sat opposite.
Just as we were about to leave the dining-
room the door opened, and in swept a young
girl, who was, as Jack afterwards remarked, " a
tearing beauty, and knocked him all in a heap."
She sat down at our table, and then commenced
operations to arrange her clothes in a position to
suit her. First she sat down and gave her dress
a pat on one side, — to be sure it was still there,
I suppose, — but almost immediately rose again
and settled herself in a different manner.
This time she seemed to have hit it, for she
smiled sweetly to herself, and after fidgeting
around for a moment or two became quiet at
last, and stared squarely at me across the table.
Being a modest man, I dropped my eyes. She
40 SOUTHERN RAMBLES.
then transferred her attentions to Jack, who had
A MODEST MAW.
been looking at her fixedly ever since she
JACKSOISTVILLE. 41
entered the room, his eyes having something of
the expression of an animated corpse. After
having viewed him to her satisfaction, she turned
her attention to the waiter and languidly ordered
him to bring an orange, and she would think
what she would eat in the mean while. As I was
not at all anxious to see her devour an orange,
and as I was anxious to smoke a cigar, I left the
table and the room. Jack followed me slowly,
and when we had reached the office said solemnly,
"In my younger days I used to amuse myself by
staring our old cat into fits. I could frighten a
baby into convulsions in less than a minute ; but
I will bet my chance of wings hereafter that if
that girl fixed her eyes on an Egyptian mummy,
the mummy would have to cave in."
We strolled past the garden in front of the
hotel and continued on until we reached Bay
Street, which presented quite an attractive
appearance. It is broad and smooth, and is
lined on both sides by large, handsome stores.
A number of these stores are devoted to curios-
ities, which meet a ready sale to tourists who
42 SOUTHERN RAMBLES.
desire to carry home some little present to a
friend, or as a memento of the place, and gener-
ally prefer curiosities to anything else. Alliga-
tors' teeth, stuffed birds, snakes, feather fans,
sea beans, — anything, in fact, in the shape of
a local curiosity is always in demand. The
dealers charge exorbitant prices for these arti-
cles, and get them, too.
Jack stopped in front of a large, imposing-
looking store, the windows of which were filled
with curiosities of every description, and wanted
to go in. So in we went, and Jack with his
usual bashfulness stalked up to a gentleman
behind the counter and remarked that we did
not wish to buy anything, and that we only came
in to look around. The proprietor was very
affable, and told us to make ourselves at home.
There were quantities of curious specimens of
natural history and art, and I should have
enjoyed myself hugely rummaging about had it
not been for Jack, who amused himself by
tickling the monkeys, stirring up the snakes,
or picking up the little alligators and examining
JACKSONVILLE.
43
them gravely when some nervous elderly lady
happened to be near him.
Jack bought an alligator, and so did I. Mine
lived for some time ; but Jack's met with a most
untimely end. He was in the habit of taking
the little fellow out of his pocket by mistake,
when feeling for his gloves or handkerchief
(when ladies were about) ; but one day he
forgot to "take it out by mistake," when he
44 SOUTHERN" RAMBLES.
happened to be lying out on the grass, and the
poor little chap was crushed to death. Jack
mourned for him long. He said he missed the
friendly squirm which it gave whenever he put
his hand in his pocket.
When we returned to the hotel, most of the
people were at supper; and as we took our seats
at the table, I observed a short, sharp-featured
man sitting opposite me, who had evidently just
arrived.
At the time of our entrance, a gentleman at
the head of the table was talking to a friend of
his, who was seated next the new arrival, about
the "Wlnsor Hotel in Montreal, and stated that
some Americans who were there wrote their
names on the walls. At this the new arrival
fired up, and remarked, —
" See here, stranger ! do you mean to tell me
that Americans marked up the walls more than
you blarsted Englishmen?"
The gentleman remarked that there were peo-
ple of every nation who sometimes did thought-
less actions without meaning to do any harm.
JACKSONVILLE.
w But you said Americans."
" They certainly were Americans."
:f Well, that yanks the bun ; that does take the
cake. See here, young feller! I'm an American.
My name 's Brown, — John F. Brown ; soap-fat
man; north side Chicago. Everybody knows
me there, — me and Mr. Blank. You must have
heard of him. He 's a flower, he is. He owns
fighting dogs and fighting cats and cocks, and
has fast horses and a nice little girl. That 's the
kind of a man he is, and I'm his friend; and
that's the kind of a hairpin I am. You swell
46 SOUTHERN" RAMBLES.
Canada chaps think you can come down here
and blow about your hotels ; but it won't go
down with me. Why, I've been all over your
country, and never saw a ranche worth marking
on yet."
The gentleman left the table, and Brown be-
came quiet; but in a few minutes he fired up
again, and looking at Jack, remarked, —
* When I hear a man talk that way, me,
it makes me mad enough to eat a couple of
eggs."
We saw that he was hunting for a new victim;
so as we had finished our supper, we rose and
left the table in dignified silence.
After half an hour's stroll, we returned to
the hotel, and passed the evening playing bill-
iards, so we saw no more of Brown that night;
but early the next morning we observed him
talking loudly to the clerk. As we passed, he
was saying, —
w I should like to know what kind of a hospi-
tal you call this, anyhow. That galoot in the
next room was swapping coughs with the girl
JACKSONVILLE. 47
over opposite, and between 'em they raised
the — »
We passed on, and the rest of the speech was
lost. I missed him at dinner, and on asking the
clerk where he was, was informed that he had
left for St. Augustine on the morning boat to
wake up the people there; "and," said the clerk,
" he can do it."
CHAPTEK IV.
LIFE in Jacksonville is easy and pleasant.
Occasionally, during the winter, the mercury
drops to 30° during the early hours of the
morning, and then the visitors don innumerable
under-flannels, and howl about the lovely South-
ern climate to keep up appearances. Every
warm day that comes along, they hang their
thermometers up in the most sunny place they
can find, and sit down to write to their friends
in the North.
'Happening to enter the reading-room one
morning, I observed an unfinished letter lying
upon the table, which had evidently been dis-
carded on account of an immense blot which
obscured the picture of the hotel which embel-
lished the corner of the paper. It ran as fol-
lows : —
JACKSONTILLE. 49
"JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA, Jan. 7, 1878.
" DEAREST NELLIE :
" I am sure you ought to feel highly flattered at receiving
another letter from me so soon ; but I have been having such
a perfectly splendid time lately that I wanted to tell you all
alDout it. It is very warm to-day. I am sitting by the open *
window as I write, enjoying the breeze, scented with the
fragrance of the orange groves. Don't it seem funn}r that I
should be sitting here writing to you, with the thermometer
at 80°, while you are — "
It broke off abruptly here. She was undoubt-
edly a new arrival. An old hand would have
gone down to the reading-room, nestled up to
the stove, and written, " It is too warm to write,
and really this languid climate seems," etc., etc.
They all do it in one way or another when
writing to friends at home who have not enjoyed
the luxury of a Southern climate. Some of them
crowd the temperature up a little ; but then, what
is the use of being mean about a few degrees?
Jack wrote a letter home about a week after
our arrival, and I happened to enter the room
just as he commenced operations. He had evi-
dently been taking some violent exercise, for the
50
SOUTHERN RAMBLES.
perspiration stood out on his brow in beads.
The window was raised about a quarter of an
inch (to ease his conscience, I suppose) , a heavy
shawl was thrown over his shoulders, and he
was writing as if for a wager. To crown the
whole, he had hung his thermometer up on the
wall, with the bulb about half an inch from
the table, and every few minutes he would take
the cigar from between his lips and rest it
on the table under the bulb. Whenever he did
this, the registered temperature was something
frightful.
HOME.
JACKSONVILLE. 51
I asked no questions, and he made no re-
marks; but he wore a satisfied smile as he
mailed the result of his labors when we went
down-stairs to dinner; and I could not help
thinking that if the orthodox belief is true,
and all a man's lies are recorded in heaven,
the angel who has the contract for Jack must
soon become a drivelling idiot, or take a partner.
CHAPTER Y.
A WINTER may be passed very pleasantly in
Jacksonville. One makes pleasant acquaint-
ances; visits numberless places, many of them
worth seeing and many of them not worth going
across the street to see ; possibly the latter pre-
dominate.
Jack and I enjoyed ourselves: the tranquil,
easy life suited us, especially Jack. The more
lazy the life, the better he was suited. We
passed our time riding, boating, and sleeping.
After dinner we sometimes adjourned to the
parlor and sung awhile. "We sung duets occa-
sionally, but not often, as it drew a crowd. I
was once highly complimented on my singing.
It happened in this wise: In the middle of a
song a gentleman called who wanted to borrow
some money of me. He listened attentively
JACKSONVILLE. 53
until I had finished, and then sighed, "I could
listen to you forever." I lent him the money.
As a rule, people listened to my singing in
enraptured silence and then went away. Some-
times the proprietor would hurry in and ask me
to stop singing, as there was a sick child on that
floor. After a while I noticed that he generally
asked me to desist, and advanced the sick-child
theory, whenever there happened to be some new
arrivals looking about the hotel to see if they
liked it well enough to stay; and I came to the
conclusion that he wished to impress them favor-
ably by showing his tender-heartedness and
solicitude for sick children. I did not like him
as well after that. I do not like to see a man
assume a virtue to increase his business.
"We made many friends among the guests
of the hotel, and were constantly making new
acquaintances. One morning as I entered the
dining-room I observed a gentleman and lady,
whom I had not seen before, sitting at our table.
He occupied the seat next to me, and we very
naturally conversed together while eating our
SOUTHERN RAMBLES.
breakfast. After leaving the table, I lit a cigar
and strolled up and down the^piazza, where in a
1 LOOK AT THAT CHILD."
JACKSONVILLE. 55
few moments he joined me, and we were chatting1
pleasantly together when I observed a nurse,
leading two children, who was evidently just
starting out for a walk.
I said, " For heaven's sake, look at that bow-
legged child! Why, his legs are like barrel
hoops. Whose is it, — do you know? "
w He is mine."
w Oh ! I mean the other one."
f? They are both mine."
I said something idiotic and tried to change
the subject; but the conversation flagged, and in
a few moments he excused himself and left me-
Whenever we met afterwards he treated me with
studied courtesy, but there was a coldness in his
manner which I could not account for.
In and about the city there are a great many
pleasant drives, and good horses and carriages
may be hired at reasonable prices if you make a
bargain beforehand. Jack and I strolled over
to a stable one afternoon and inquired the price
of a carriage for the afternoon. The man named
a pricq, but Jack interrupted him and said we
56 SOUTHERN RAMBLES.
did not wish to buy the team, we merely wished
^
DON'T OWN A GLUE FACTORY.
to hire it for a drive. It was lost 011 the native,
JACKSONVILLE. 57
— sarcasm has no more effect upon them than
prayer. We did not engage a team then; but
the next day I sent a boy over to the stable to
get us a good horse and buggy. Tn about half
an hour he returned, seated in a buggy drawn
by an emaciated wreck of a horse, whose sides
looked as though they had been passed through
a fluting iron.
*
Jack said, "Did you tell him we wanted a
good horse? "
' Yes, sah, he said this was just the horse to
suit you."
? "Well, you go back and tell him that he has
made a mistake in the parties ; we are not the
proprietors of a glue factory."
"Sah?"
"Shut up!"
Jack was evidently annoyed, so to save trouble
I climbed into the team, where he followed me and
took the reins. We woke up the wreck, and
after dusting him with the but of the whip for
a few moments, induced him to jog along at a
reasonable rate. Poor fellow, he was so thin
58 SOUTHERN" KAMBLES.
that his backbone rattled at every step; but we
enjoyed the ride and the exercise.
JACKSONVILLE.
59
Among the places in Jacksonville well worth a
visit are the tobacco factories, where a large num-
ber of negroes are employed in manufacturing
cigars. Their singing is well worth hearing. We
hired a number of them to come and sing to us in
the evening, while we sat upon the porch of the
hotel. I shall never forget the evening. It was
a bright moonlight night, and we had been listen-
ing to their rich voices blended together in the
simple harmony of the negro melodies. For five
minutes every one had maintained a perfect
silence. No one wished to speak. All nature
seemed at rest, and the peaceful stillness seemed
HOME, SWEET HOME.
60 SOUTHERN RAMBLES.
harshly broken by the sound of the human voice.
Suddenly one of the negro tenors commenced
singing " Home, sweet home," while the others
hummed an accompaniment. When it ceased and
died away, more than one young girl slyly wiped
away a tear which they should not have been
ashamed of; our hearts yearned for our loved
ones at home, whom we were not to see, perhaps,
for months to come.
CHAPTER VI.
EVERY day we heard people talking about
the wonderful shooting which they had had in
such and such places. Their stories were so
large that before I visited the wonderful spots,
I thought they were stretching the truth a lit-
tle. Afterwards, my impression remained un-
changed; but I was told that the year I was
there, game was scarcer than any in the remem-
brance of the oldest inhabitant. This may have
been so; at least, as I had no way of disproving
their statements, I gave -them the benefit of the
ponderous doubt.
Standing on the wharf one day, I saw a poor,
broken-down old man, whose white hair and tot-
tering steps gave evidence of extreme old age.
As he passed me, I observed that he was fear-
fully cross-eyed. His otherwise fine features
wore an expression of peaceful resignation, as
62
SOUTHERN" RAMBLES.
of one who had lived a good and true life, and
was ready to die, when
his time came, with
perfect trust in his
Creator.
An old pilot, with
whom I had been con-
versing a few mo-
ments before, touched
me on the shoulder,
and said, —
"Do you see that white-haired old party?"
"I do."
" Kinder cross-eyed."
" I noticed that he was."
" Know who he is ? "
"No."
? Well, ten years ago he was one of the smart-
est pilots in the place ; but he had one bad habit,
and that was lying. We all tried to break him
of it; but it was no use. Why, he used to com-
mence light in the morning, and we did n't mind
it much, — sorter white lies, you know ; but
JACKSONVILLE.
63
as the day wore on, he grew worse and worse,
until towards night, if he happened to meet you
alone, he would thunder out double-jointed lies
eight or nine feet long without a break. But to
get back to my story. One morning Sam, or
KNOW WHO HB is?
'Salt,' as we used to call him, happened to be
standing on the wharf, smoking his pipe before
breakfast, and waiting for the steamer to get in.
As the passengers landed, a young fellow fresh
from New York stepped up to him, and asked
him some questions about the place. 'Salt' took
64 SOUTHERN" RAMBLES.
his measure, and opened light on him at first, to
see what he was made of; but as the young
chap seemed to swallow everything, he wanned
up to his work, and in a few minutes forgot
himself, and exploded an awful, compound even-
ing lie on an empty stomach. He got about
half through with it, when he was taken with
cramps, and tied himself into two or three kinds
of knots. He suffered awfully for nearly three
weeks, and although the doctors pulled him
through, they could n't get his eyes straight. His
overstrained system has never entirely recovered,
and now he is a broken-down old man at forty."
This man bore a good reputation. The next
day I happened to pass the house where he lived,
just as he came out of the gate ; he raised his hat
politely, and made a remark about the weather.
At that moment a man passed by on the other
side of the street, who looked like a candidate
for a morgue. The ghastly white skin was
drawn tightly over the high cheek-bones, and his
deeply sunken eyes had a feverish light in them
which was very unpleasant to look at. He was
JACKSONTILLE. 65
very thin, and walked painfully, like one weary
and longing for rest. As he passed, he coughed
a low, hollow cough, with a wheeze on the end of
it that sounded so tomb-like it made me shudder.
i The pilot looked sadly after him as he passed,
and muttered, " Poor fellow! poor fellow! "
"Do you know him? " I asked.
"Know him? I guess I do, poor fellow; it's
awful to see what ambition will lead a man to ! "
"How?"
:? Why, when he landed here three years ago,
he was one of the healthiest consumptives that I
ever saw. He had an awful cough, and he used
to shake the house so where he boarded that the
other people would n't stand it, so he used to go
out in the garden and take his morning practice;
but although it was an improvement on the house
business, it raised the deuce with the fruit on the
trees. Some one up river heard of him, and
offered him a large salary if he would come up
and cough in his orange grove during gathering
season.
w He did it, and the experiment was an immense
66
SOUTHERN RAMBLES.
success. He could clear a tree in three coughs,
a
• w — ^
Elfipfc
and sometimes two if it was a still day. He got
contracts everywhere, and was proud as a peacock
JACKSONVILLE.
67
of his coughing. But one day some mean fel-
low put up a job on him, by tying a lot of
oranges on a tree, and then hiring him to cough
them off. He went and exploded a cough that
shook the tree to the roots, but not an orange fell.
An expres-
sion of sur-
prise passed
over his face
as ' he fired
another and
another with-
out success.
Then he got
mad, and tak-
ing off his
coat and vest,
opened o n
that tree in
earnest. The
way he raged
and coughed and wheezed was something awful
to witness.
7
68
SOUTHERN RAMBLES.
w He killed the tree, but not an orange dropped.
He kept it up till he swooned. As he got
warmed up to his work, some of his coughs
knocked him off his feet as if a gun had kicked
him. He lost all ambition after that, and spent
all his money in drink. Now he lives along by
selling his body to the doctors. "Whenever he
gets hard up he goes and sells himself to some
new doctor, to be delivered at death; but if he
keeps on getting thinner and thinner the way he
has been doing lately, there won't be enough of
him left to go around, poor fellow."
He turned his face
aside to conceal a tear
which slowly trickled
down his weather-beat-
en cheek.
I said, " Are you sure
that is all true ? "
"True! As I hope
to be saved in the
hereafter, it is all true as gospel. I saw it my-
self."
CHAPTER VII.
PILOT TOWN.
PILOT TOWN is situated at the mouth of the
St. John's River, and may be reached in an
hour from Jacksonville in any of the little
steamers which ply up and down the river. We
had gone there for shooting; and so, when we
had stowed ourselves away in a comfortable
little house, we unpacked our arsenal and spent
the afternoon in preparing for the next day's
slaughter.
From the stories which I had heard concern-
ing this place, I had some idea of not taking a
gun at all, but intended to cut a stick and walk
about clubbing the game to death. I gave up
this idea and took the gun along, as Jack said he
was going to take his, and I wanted to do an
equal share in the carnage which was to take
place the next day. The evening was warm, and
70 SOUTHERN RAMBLES.
we sat out on the piazza smoking our cigars, in
the quiet enjoyment of their narcotic influence
and the mosquitoes. We listened for the croaks
of thousands of night birds, but did n't hear any.
It was probably not late enough. After a while
Jack got sleepy, and proposed going to bed.
Previous to retiring we looked over our ammu-
nition once more. I filled several bags with
cartridges, which weighed collectively about as
much as a mule could carry with any comfort.
Jack did the same ; and added all he could stuff
in his pockets besides. He said he always
believed in taking enough ammunition in a game
country. All being arranged, we retired. I
listened to Jack for a few moments as he moved
around in the next room, and then I heard him
climb into bed ; immediately there was a rattling
sound, followed by some remarks.
I was interested, and asked, —
"What's the matter?"
" Oh, nothing, only the slats of my bed have
all fallen out."
I heard him get up and arrange them carefully,
PILOT TOWN.
71
then all became quiet. He had climbed into his
bed so carefully that I had not heard him. I
wanted to ask if he had fixed things all right,
but heard him murmuring softly to himself, and
did not wish to interrupt his devotions.
Night after night this performance was
repeated, and as regularly he said his prayers.
Sometimes during the night Jack became
restless, and a sudden movement in his sleep
caused a general discharge of slats; then com-
menced a groping for matches, during which
operation he generally knocked over half the
breakable objects in the room, or tied his toes up
7^5 SOUTHERN RAMTBLES.
•
in a knot on the corner of some box; all the
time he would be rehearsing blank verse in a
foreign language.
I am glad we did not stay there long; for if
we had I think Jack would have soon acquired a
vocabulary which would have made a pirate turn
pale with envy.
The next morning we were *wup with the
lark"; and after an
early breakfast we
loaded ourselves with
ammunition and guns,
and started up the
road in the direc-
tion of the woods.
After walking for an
hour, I had seen and
murdered two little
birds. I had heard
Jack shoot once, and
judged he was having
as exciting sport as myself. By this time the
* I have seen this remark somewhere in print.
PILOT TOWN. 73
cartridges weighed a ton, and I sat down on a
smooth stone in a shady spot to wait for game.
I did not wish to rest, but thought that perhaps
the noise of tramping through the bushes might
frighten away the game. In about an hour I
heard something coming through the bushes,
and perceived Jack approaching, carrying a
little white heron under his arm, which I after-
wards learned he had found in the bushes, un-
able to fly, and captured it alive.
Observing me, he made a short cut to where I
was seated, and lowering his head to pass be-
neath a low limb, he put his face within an inch
of an immense spider, which was evidently wait-
ing to embrace him.
For a second he remained stationary, and then
fired the heron into the sky with one hand, while
he dug a grave with his gun with the other.
He then made the longest jump on record.
Upon questioning him afterwards, he said that
he was not at all nervous, but had simply
dropped his things and stepped back to find
something to catch the spider with.
SOUTHERN RAMBLES.
STEPPED BACK.
After digging tip Jack's gun we started for
the house, and upon reaching it found that
dinner would be ready in a few moments; so
piling our game upon the porch, together with
the guns and ammunition, we wended our way to
our respective rooms to enjoy the luxury of a
bath.
PILOT TOWN.
75
Some weeks afterwards a Northern gentleman
asked Jack about the shooting at Pilot Town,
and he said, "Shooting? Oh, yes; it is much
better there than about Jacksonville." I noticed
also he inquired the gentleman's address, but
showed no desire to visit that city on our return
North.
CHAPTER YIII.
UP THE ST. JOHN'S.
A FEW days after the events related in the pre-
ceding chapter, we were comfortably settled on
board of a fine little steamer, bound up the St.
John's River, touching now and then at some of
the larger orange groves which line its banks,
but making no stop until we arrived at Palatka.
Palatka boasts of a good hotel, the Larkin
House. It is one of the best in Florida, and is
improved by contrast with the others one finds
farther up the river. Jack and I took our guns
and wandered into the woods for a little sport,
and had our usual success, although Jack swore
that he saw a bird. The next morning we again
boarded the steamer and continued on our way
up the rivBr. From, this point the scenery be-
comes very pretty, and the river is so narrow that
it is nearly always perfectly calm. A short time
UP THE ST. JOHN'S.
77
after starting we passed the mouth of the famous
[I
V I
\> ill!
Oclawaha River (famous for its alligators
twenty feet long, its beautiful scenery, and many
78 SOUTHERN RAMBLES.
other lies which I have forgotten). Here the
pilot told me about a " 'gator " which he had shot
at its mouth; but he had been up all night, and
was tired so that he did not do himself justice.
After passing Lake George the river narrowed
still more, and I killed my first alligator ; later
they became quite common, and Jack and I killed
several, the largest of which measured about
twelve feet in length. At Georgetown we were
told that deer were very plenty, tut somehow or
other we did not want any deer, and so kept on
our way up the river.
It was night when we arrived at Enterprise,
having travelled about two hundred and eleven
miles up the St. John's. "We stopped at the
Brock House, and liked it so well we did not
change. Jack summed up the whole matter a
few weeks afterwards, when asked by a gentle-
man (who was going to Enterprise) where he
would advise him to stop.
r?"Well, the Brock House has its defects, and
many things about it might be improved ; but if
I were you, I think I should stop there."
UP THE ST. JOHN'S. 79
"What other hotels are there in the place?"
"Kone!"
As I said before, we stopped there, and so did
a number of other people who enjoyed the air,
the butter, and the high prices as much as we did;
perhaps more. The days were spent in hunting,
and we found the shooting very good about
Enterprise. Quail, snipe, deer, and alligators
are abundant within a short distance of the hotel,
and one may get very good sport by taking the
trouble to look for it. Our evenings were gener-
ally passed in the reading-room in the society of
a number of gentlemen, who were there for the
same purpose that we were. The evening after
our arrival, as we entered the room, it presented
a lively appearance, calculated to cheer one after
a hard day's tramp. There were but four gentle-
men in the room; one was asleep on the sofa,
two snoozed in their chairs, and the fourth was
doubled up in the corner smoking his pipe.
We joined in the general hilarity, and after
sitting there for a few minutes, our voices uncon-
sciously sunk to a half-whisper as if in a church.
80
SOUTHERN KAMBLES.
The gentleman who was lying on the sofa, and
who appeared restless and uneasy, suddenly rose
UP THE ST. JOHN'S. 81
to a sitting posture and relieved himself of the
following speech : —
"Gentlemen: This sort of thing is played.
Night after night we assemble here to pass
the evening together, and what do we do? We
plank ourselves in some chair and toast our
shins, and amuse ourselves by swapping lies and
gambling with the spittoon. Now, I move we
have a game of poker." The motion being duly
seconded, it was put to a vote, and carried by a
large majority.
During the evening Jack kept 'losing small
amounts, until at last he had a hand which suited
him; he kept on betting until his opponent .called
him. He showed an ace full; his opponent
showed four fours. Jack looked the hand al~
over carefully, and then smiled a sickly sort of
smile, — the kind of smile one would expect to
see on the face of a doctor, who, while dissecting
a corpse, had it rise up and shake its fist at him.
He then said it was late, and he "guessed he
would go to bed."
Neither of us understood the game very well,
82
SOUTHERN RAMBLES.
so after one or two evenings at it we gave it up.
We did not dislike the game ; in fact we found it
amusing, very, but expensive.
EVENING AMUSEMENT.
UP THE ST. JOHN'S. 83
The next day we received an invitation to wit-
ness a cock fight which was to take place a short
distance from the hotel. Neither of us had ever
seen a real fight, and were anxious to witness an
affair of that kind ; so ^t the appointed time we
started for the ground, in company with several
other gentlemen who had also received invita-
tions. Arriving at the appointed spot, we strolled
around and watched the operation of " heeling "
the birds. The natural spurs of the bird are
sawed off, leaving a
stump on which to
fasten the artificial
weapon; around this is placed a strip of soft
leather, over which the w steel " is pressed on and
tightly bound to the leg of the fowl.
The first pan* which was brought out were
magnificent birds of the " Spangle " breed. Upon
perceiving each other their eyes flashed, and they
seemed to quiver all over with rage. Before
being released they were allowed to peck at one
another for a few minutes, to still more excite
their passions. The moment they were placed
84 SOUTHERN RAMBLES.
upon the ground they rushed at each other with
blind fury, striking so quickly it was impossible
to follow the blows. Almost immediately one
of the birds dropped to the ground limp and life-
less, with the steel spur of his adversary buried *
in his brain. The fight lasted only eleven sec-
onds. The victor was carried away and carefully
looked after, while the unfortunate rooster was
thrown to one side to make room for the next
pair, which was then being brought up.
These were even handsomer than the first pair.
One was a large red of beautiful proportions;
his opponent was much darker in color, and
somewhat smaller.
At the first rush the black was knocked
completely off his feet and fell over on his back,
but was up again almost instantly, striking sav-
agely. Again and again the black was knocked
over, but always managed to regain his feet
before the red could strike him. After one of
these falls we noticed that the red walked about
in a dazed sort of way. His breath came with
a gurgling sound, and the blood began to drip
UP THE ST. JOHN'S. 85
from the end of his bill. An unlucky stroke had
cut his throat, and it was now only a matter of
time as to which would win the fight; his own
death was certain. The red seemed to know
this, for recovering himself he rushed savagely ^
at his opponent, and for a moment they fought
as fiercely as at the commencement. They both
fell together, and upon separating the black did
not get up. However, a moment afterwards he
struggled to his feet, and we perceived that his
leg was broken at the knee. It was painful to
witness the efforts of the brave little fellow to
stand and fight. At every rush he was knocked
down and cut badly; still he tried again and
again, and one of his strokes penetrated deep
into his opponent's breast. Again they closed,
and this time the game little black did not get
up again. He was dying, and when they
lifted him up he was dead. The red stood with
drooping head, his life-blood slowly dripping
from his wounds ; gradually his eyes closed and
he sunk slowly down, down, until he rested upon
his side. Once he tried to raise his head, but was
86
SOUTHERN RAMBLES.
apparently too weak; and with a gasp almost
human in its agony, his muscles relaxed, and he
lay at full length upon the ground, a conqueror,
yet conquered.
There was to be one more fight before dinner,
and the gentleman who had invited us said that
he was about to try a bird which he knew noth-
ing about. It had been sent to him by a friend,
and he intended to match him against one of his
best cocks. In a few minutes the birds were
brought up and allowed to peck at each other as
A TERRIFIC RUSH.
usual, to excite them. Somehow the new bird
did not seem as ambitious as the others had been
to be released, but when placed on the ground
ITP THE ST. JOHN'S. 87
he struck at his opponent savagely. As luck
would have it, his adversary's spur just pricked
his neck a little. The moment he felt the touch,
his whole appearance changed. His next rush
was terrific, but we were unable to learn the re-
sult of the fight, as at the time of our last view
of them as they vanished over the top of a small
hill, the pursuing bird had not gained sufficiently
to admit of commencing operations.
CHAPTEE IX.
DEER HUNTING.
had been told that there were quantities
of deer in the vicinity of Enterprise, and Jack
wanted to kill some ; so did I. The result was
that we hired a negro who owned a family of
dogs to take us where we could destroy one.
He was a tall, powerful chap, all bone and mus-
cle, and for a wonder we found him willing to
work; what was still more strange, he did not
promise to show us herds of deer grazing in close
proximity to dense thickets. He said he would
take us where he had seen deer, and where he
knew deer sometimes went; but whether we
would see one or not, he could not say. This
saint's name was " Bunk." "We were going to
an island which was situated about a mile down
the lake. Some of the dogs did not want to get
into the boat, but " Bunk " petted them with a
DEER HTXNTLtfG. 89
club, and coaxed them aboard. On the way
BUNK.
down some of the dogs became seasick, and were
90
SOUTHERN RAMBLES.
unhappy and miserable until we reached the
!t/A,A k <N <^P
WM«%XA, t?*
PBKl^lWllllr^ifcJlffil
island. Upon landing we made the boat fast.
DEER HUNTING.
91
and then our guide led the way through the
wood, followed by his drove of dogs. He said
he would place us in certain spots which he knew
of where the deer usually ran, and then he
intended to scour
the woods with his
brood of curs,mak-
ing as much noise
as possible to drive
the deer in our
direction.
He started, and
we followed him
for about a mile,
in silence ; then
Jack inquired if
the "place was far."
He said we were
? 'most there " ;
then followed fif-
teen minutes of
hard walking over rough ground, through
tangled vines and bushes, until at last we arrived
SOUTHERN RAMBLES.
at the edge of the woods, and saw before us a
long stretch of level prairie, dotted here and
there with clumps of
small trees. Under
one of these he posted
Jack, and Jack was
very glad to be post-
ed. Then followed
another tramp of
about half a mile
to another desirable
spot ; at last we
reached it, and I
I
concealed myself in
I a thick growth of
'bushes to wait for
the coming deer.
In about half an
hour I began to get
restless ; the ants had
found me, and had
been exploring me with disgusting familiarity. A
large black spider had been hanging over me for
DEER HUXTING. 93
ten minutes. I watched him closely, but some-
thing called my attention away for a moment, and
when I looked up for him again he was gone.
Of course I naturally concluded he was climbing
about over me for exercise. This did not annoy
me at all, but I was tired of staying in one place
and wanted exercise myself, so I took it.
Upon reaching the place where I had left Jack,
I found that he had also grown tired of staying
in one place, and was about starting out to hunt
me up. While we were conversing upon the
advisability of going in search of " Bunk," that
worthy appeared, followed by his faithful hounds,
with the exception of a few odd ones which had
become tired and gone to sleep somewhere on
the way. He had seen no deer. "We were both
anxious to continue the hunt, but it was growing
late, and we thought it better to wait until the
next day, so we went back to the boat. Jack
found a huge hornets' nest attached to a branch,
which he cut off, nest and all, to carry home as a
trophy. Somehow Jack always had a liking for
hornets' nests: when he was a boy he was .one
94
SOUTHERN RAMBLES.
day presented with a gun by a kind relation. Of
course he must try it, and the first thing he saw
DEER HUNTING-.
95
when he wandered into the woods was a huge
hornets' nest suspended from a branch about
seven feet from the ground; he took good aim and
fired, hitting the nest, and also tickling one of
his father's horses which was feeding at the time
just under it. The hornets came out to inquire
into the cause of the disturbance, and found the
horse there just as he was preparing to start for
the next State; they encouraged him hi his idea.
Time not taken. Jack took his meals standing
for a week after; telling the joke to his father,
they had roared over it together.
CHAPTER X.
LIFE AT ENTERPRISE.
THE row home was very enjoyable: I steered.
Jack was lazy and curled himself up in the Bow
of the boat for a nap, leaving " Bunk " and I to
do all the work. The sun had gone down, and
the soft, indistinct, foggy appearance of objects
at a short distance proclaimed that night was at
hand. The full moon had risen, and illumined
the shore with a splendor seldom if ever seen in
the North 5 it was fully light enough to read by, —
LIFE AT ENTERPRISE. 07
if , one had anything to read, and the type was
not too small. As we moved slowly along
98 SOUTHERN" RAMBLES.
within a short distance of the shore, the only
sound that broke the perfect stillness was the
regular movement of the oars in the row-locks,
and the dripping of the water from the blades.
I was impressed by the grand beauty of the
scene, and began to muse on the wonders of the
universe and such things. The perfect silence
appeared to affect Jack too, for he suddenly
lifted up his voice and sung, keeping time with
the movement of the oars. The rich bass voice
floated out over the lake, like the subdued bray-
ing of a dying jackass. As he commenced the
second verse, a venerable dog climbed up on the
seat in front of him and improvised an accom-
paniment. When he got to the chorus all the
dogs joined in; it was grand, but Jack did not
appear to think so, for he stopped singing, — so
did the dogs.
We arrived at the hotel without further inci-
dent, and after supper were well laughed at for
returning empty-handed. "We had forgotten to
prepare a lie, and so had no excuses to offer, but
were only too glad to go to bed as soon as we
LITE AT ENTERPRISE. 99
had finished our cigars. Here let me say that in
Florida " to bed " and " to sleep " are not synony-
mous terms ; " mattresses " and " stock farms "
may be, but I am not quite positive upon that
point, as my recollection fails me.
At such a place as Enterprise, one has a
chance of seeing many curious characters; this
category includes a class of men who are termed
"crackers," a name originally applied to the
poorer class of white people inhabiting the
southern part of Florida. One evening, while
we were sitting on the piazza of the hotel, a tall,
lean, lanky individual, with a dilapidated suit of
clothes and a more dilapidated hat, came slowly
up the steps and stood looking about him in a
dejected sort of manner. He nodded to Jack,
who happened to be nearest to him, and re-
marked, —
"Fine weather."
TYes," said Jack, "you ought to make the
crops pay this year."
" Don't raise any."
a farmer, perhaps ? "
100 SOUTHERN- RAMBLES.
* Wall, I used to be, but I can't work now.
I 'm sick all the time."
"What's the matter with you? "
* Wall, I 've got the shakes and the dyspepsy,
and I can't get nothen to do me no good."
? Why don't you go to a doctor? "
" I Ve tried lots of um ; but they don't none of
um seem to do me no good."
Jack glanced over his shoulder to see if he was
observed, and then leaning forward, said in an
impressive manner, —
" Do you see that tall, gray-haired old gentle-
man over there?" (pointing to a group of new
arrivals, none of whom he had ever seen before in
his life.)
"Which?"
" The chap with the spectacles."
"Yes."
:? Well, that is one of the most celebrated
physicians in America : he could cure you up in a
jiffy if you could get him to give you some
1 medicine ; but he is a gruif old duffer and don't
want to be bothered about his business while on
LIFE AT ENTERPRISE. 101
a vacation, so says he is not a doctor. You will
have to tease him a little, and if he is gruff don't
mind him : it 's his way."
102 SOUTHERN RAMBLES.
The " cracker " absorbed all Jack had to say,
and after letting it settle, turned around and
stared fixedly at the elderly gentleman, who was
seated in company with his two daughters at the
end of the piazza, all unconscious of what was
going on.
Jack seized the occasion to wink at me. Af-
ter looking steadily for a moment, the w cracker "
asked in a dreamy sort of way, —
" Do you think he would help me, if I asked
him? "
" Don't know ; you might try."
Another pause; Jack's face as calm as a
tombstone.
Then, "I guess I'll try him, anyhow"; and
with that he moved slowly off, in the direction of
the doctor.
Jack said he thought a change of climate would
suit his constitution, so he went into the reading-
room. I did not like being alone, so I went
with him. In the reading-room we found a
number of gentlemen, and Jack explained the
joke to them in a whisper. The blinds were
LIFE AT ENTERPRISE.
103
closed, but the windows were open, and we could
hear all that was going on outside without being
seen ourselves. "We crowded around the window
in silence, waiting for the fun to commence.
Presently a voice, which we recognized to be
that of our new acquaintance, said, —
w Say, mister, be you a doctor? "
« I am."
Jack's face was a study, but he recovered him-
104
SOUTHERN RAMBLES.
self and ordered the necessary stimulants. That
night I heard him moving restlessly in his bed, as
though his conscience troubled him, — perhaps
THANKED HIM.
it did. The best of the thing was that the
" cracker " on meeting him the next day thanked
him warmly, with tears in his eyes, for his kind-
ness. There were a number of the gentlemen
i
present, and Jack did not seem to enjoy it ; we
did!
A few days afterwards, I had the pleasure of
LLFE AT ENTERPRISE. 105
witnessing an example of coolness and quick
wit, such as it has rarely been my lot to see.
A party of gentlemen were practising pistol
shooting, and among them was a celebrated
marksman, who had been doing some exceedingly
brilliant shooting. While the practice was
going on, a young Englishman had been lazily
reclining under a tree, smoking a cigar. After
the gentleman, whom we will call Z, had made
a more than usually fine shot, the Englishman
said in a drawling tone, " By Jove, not so bad."
No impertinence was intended, and the drawling
tone was perfectly natural; but Z took offence
at the remark, and said sarcastically, " I am glad
you do not think it bad. Will you be kind
enough to show us a good shot? " (handing him
the pistol.) w I will hold out my cigar if you
will oblige me by shooting the ashes off of it."
The Englishman was placed in a position where
he had either to attempt a shot which he knew
he could not make, or admit that he was inca-
pable of doing it. We all thought him caught ;
but no, he gravely returned the pistol and said,
106 SOUTHERN RAMBLES.
in a slow, drawling manner, w My dear sir, I am
a stranger here, and this is your country, you
LIFE AT ENTERPRISE. 107
know. I will hold the cigar and you make the
shot " ; and with this he took the cigar between
his fingers, and held it up in a careless, uncon-
cerned way. Z accepted the pistol, stepped back
a few rods and took aim ; there was a flash, a
report, and the ashes flew into the air in a little
white cloud. The Englishman glanced at his
cigar, smiled, bowed, and replacing it between
h'.s lips, walked slowly to the hotel.
CHAPTER XI.
THE STRANGER'S STORY.
THAT evening, while Jack and I were con-
versing with a tall, fine-looking man, who had
arrived by the boat that afternoon, an old negro
came up to us and requested a contribution in
aid of a church about to be established some ten
miles back in the country. Jack asked who was
to be the minister.
«Iis!"
K Do you feel competent to fill the position?"
? Wall, master, I is going to try and dispense
de gospel, and wid de help ob de Lord I is goin'
to succeed."
"We gave him some money, and as he moved
away I observed a smile on the face of our new
friend; and turning to me he said, "That last
remark has recalled to my mind an incident
which occurred many years ago while I was
THE STRANGER'S STORY. 109
travelling in California. If you would like to
hear the story, I should be most happy to relate
110 SOUTHERN RAMBLES.
it." We signified our desire to do so; where-
upon he lighted a fresh cigar, leaned back in his
chair, and began at once.
THE STRANGER'S STORY.
I was a miner at that time, and while out
prospecting among the mountains, we encamped
one evening at a little mining village known by
the name of Salt Gulch. Upon our arrival we
were informed that the whole camp was in
mourning on account of the death of w the par-
son," who had died that same afternoon. He had
been a poor, weak, perhaps incapable young man,
who had suddenly appeared in the camp some
two years before. The rough men who consti-
tuted the population of the " Gulch " had liked
him from the first, and had evidently felt a pride
in having a minister in the camp. They had fed
him and sheltered him, and he in return preached
on Sunday to those who would come to the little
log-cabin which constituted the church of the
camp. He often watched by the bedside of the
sick, tending them with kindness and gentleness,
THE STRANGER'S STORY. Ill
and the rough miners loved him; and when he
died followed him to his grave, showing real sor-
row, as they erected a rough pine cross to mark
his last resting-place.
That night it was decided that in respect to
the memory of the departed, the church should
be kept up, and an individual known as " Brandy
Joe " was unanimously elected to fill the vacant
position of " parson."
The next day was Sunday, and after breakfast,
the whole camp assembled in the church, in
anxious expectation to see how " Joe " would get
on in his new position. The pulpit consisted of
a rough pine table, placed upon a small platform
raised some three or four feet from the ground.
On the table rested a Bible, a glass of water,
and a mallet such as are used by auctioneers.
As soon as the congregation had become quiet,
Joe arose, rapped several times, to command
silence, cleared his throat, and resting his hands
upon the table in. front of him, said, —
" My hearers ! You all know that this is a
new game to me. I have looked on several times
112 SOUTHERN" RAMBLES.
while it was a-goin' on, but I never took a hand
in it before. Yer see it was kinder rough on
THE STRANGER'S STORY. 113
this camp, when the dear departed passed in his
checks. Seein' as how there wa'n't another of his
profesh hangin' around in these parts, some one
had to be run in to fill the vacancy: I was the
galoot run in, and all I can say is, I am a-goin' to
try and play the game straight clear through;
and I don't believe as this camp will try and put
up a job on me the first deal. Bern' as how I
never expected to be called on to take the bank,
and not bein' up in the game, I kinder looked
into it last night; and I struck several p'ints
which may interest the crowd. I struck one
yarn about a chap named Balaam. It seems he
was goin' on a visit to some of his friends, and
was a-joggin' along, ridin' an old ass, and sorter
takin' it easy, when the angel of the Lord rose up
and stood in his way. The ass saw the angel
standin' in the road and bolted; but Balaam
belted him over the head with a club and drove
him back into the road. And it came to pass
that the angel moved on down the road and laid
for 'em again; and when the ass come up and
saw him, he jammed Balaam up against a wall;
114 SOUTHERN" RAMBLES.
and Balaam lifted up his voice and swore, and
Wr? ^/IA %^^W/^
"WO A Jt*
. t . ^K a. / f W^lff^ V ?
lammed considerable dust out of the animal's
THE STRANGER'S STORY. 115
hide with the bludgeon. Again the procession
moved on; this time the angel put up a job on
'em, and settled down in a part of the road which
Was so narrer they could n't git by. When the
ass saw him the third time, and found he had
no show, he threw up the game and sat down,
slidin' Balaam off in the mud. Balaam was
awful mad, because, you see, he was all fixed,
1 — ragged out, as it were; he just riz outer that
mud and whaled the ass like thunder. Then the
Lord opened the beast's mouth, and she said
unto Balaam, —
'"Why dost thou whale me?'
" And Balaam lifted up his voice and said, —
r ' By the beard of my daddy, I '11 whale the
immortal stuffin' out of yer, if you cut up any
more shines with me ! '
Here the speaker paused for an instant, and
then said, " I don't quite feel solid as to what
was did after that; but he didn't have no more
trouble, and got to where he was goin' all serene."
Further speech was interrupted by a burst of
applause ; and cries of w Go it, Brandy I " " Bully
for Joe ! " were heard upon all sides.
116 SOUTHERN RAMBLES.
When quiet was at length restored, Joe
mopped his face mechanically with a large red
handkerchief and continued : —
w I want to tell yer another story about a chap
named Nebuchadnezzar, who was high-cock-a-
lorum and chief boss of the locality in which he
resided. Ycr see, he had told the boys that
they must knuckle under and look pious at an
image, or something of that sort; and three of
the boys, named Shadrach, Meshac, and Abed-
nego, would n't do it. Their friends gave 'em
dead away, and Neb. ordered 'em to be brought
before him. The boys tumbled that they were
in for it when they heard he wanted 'em; but
they were game, and went. "When Nebuchad-
nezzar saw 'em he said, ' I 've been told that
you three chaps won't pray to that lovely little
god I 've set up out there in the square. Now
let me tell you chaps right here, that I rule this
roost; and if, when next you hear the sweet
sounds of the sackbut, psaltery, dulcimer, and
jewsharp, you don't get down and worship that
iffigy, I'll roast yer.' "What did the boys do?
THE STRANGER'S STORY. 117
Did they weaken, and say they would tumble to
the racket in future? Not much they didn't.
They called a meeting right there, and ap-
pointed Shad, a committee of one to express
their opinions ; and Shad said, * O sire, you
take us for the wrong kind of a set of angels.
If you think we are going to worship that scare-
crow to the sound of slow music, we beg to
tender our resignation.'
:? Then the king was as mad as if he had sat
down on a nail, and he ordered his best oven to
be heated seven times hotter than it ever had
been before, and that Shad., Mesh., and Ab.
should be chucked into it. Yer see, the boys
were game, but the old man was too much for
'em, for he had the crowd with him; and they
tied 'em and hove 'em into the oven. Then the
old man got up, and his eyes stuck out, even
like unto those of a lobster, and the folio win «•
jawing took place: —
"Did I not chuck three infidels into that
oven?'
"And they answered unto him, saying, <O
king, thou hast a level head!'
118 SOUTHERN KAMBLES.
w The old man, though, he saw four men walk-
ing about in the oven ; and knowing he had only
invested in three, it kinder broke him all up, and
THE STRANGER'S STORY. 119
he called the boys out, — and the Good Book
says f they come out.' '
Joe/ paused, wiped his face with the handker-
chief again, and then continued, "I will now
pronounce the benediction ; the meeting will then
adjourn, and I invite all hands to take a drink."
Bill Davis then arose and proposed three
cheers for " Brandy Joe, the new parson." They
were given with a will ; the benediction was then
pronounced, and the meeting adjourned.
CHAPTER XII.
THE WILDERNESS.
soon tired of Enterprise, and yearned to
ascend the river still farther and explore a coun-
try but little visited by tourists. Both of us
were anxious to go; and when two people are
anxious to do a thing, and nothing interferes,
they generally do it. We consulted " Bunk," and
found that he knew the country well enough to
act as our guide. By the next morning we
were ready and waiting for the little steamer
:t-Wikiva," which was expected to arrive some
time during the day. It is hard to describe the
""Wikiva." A raft with a smoke-stack, a cabin,
and an old mill-wheel hitched at one end, would
resemble her, and go about as fast. She has to
be flat-bottomed, as the river in some places is
very shallow above Lake Harney; and as the
pilots trust in Providence in their steering, a
slow boat is a positive luxury.
THE WILDERNESS.
121
At noon she had not come in sight, so we
rowed up-river to get a little shooting until she
overtook us. "Bunk" was fresh, and rowed
hard until I cautioned him that if he did not go
slower the boat would never overtake us. We
then went ashore and camped. About midnight
she came in sight around a point a few hundred
yards down the river. "We then commenced
getting our things together, to be ready to board
her when she came past. The puffing and
splashing grew louder and louder, and a little
after one o'clock she was about opposite our
camping-ground, and the following conversation
ensued : —
"Boat ahoy!"
122
SOUTHERN RAMBLES.
"Hullo!"
T We want to come aboard."
" All right, come ahead ; there ain't any place
there where we can run ashore and get yer."
" All right, hold on, and we '11 come out to you."
A few strong strokes of the oars, and we
were alongside; a rope was thrown to us, and
" Bunk " made the boat fast while we clambered
over the side.
THE "WIKIVA."
Upon inquiring for a state-room, we were
informed the boat only contained two, and they
were both taken; so nothing was left for us to
do but to sleep in the engine-room. The room
THE WILDERNESS. 123
was small and close; and as the furnace door
was open about all the time, the atmosphere
was somewhat heated. I should judge that I
had slept for about half an hour, when I was
awakened by a sensation as if gradually being
roasted alive. I called "Bunk " and sent him
for my thermometer. It was one of the common
kind, and did not register over 220 degrees. It
burst in eleven seconds.
During a conversation with the engineer, I
learned that he had acted as engineer on that
boat for four years ; and although he had led a
wild and somewhat wicked life, he did not fear
death. I believed him.
I went outside to get some air, and find a place
to lie down in which I might possibly get some
sleep. Hardly had I got outside the door, before
I stumbled over a bundle of blankets lying in a
heap, which some negligent person had left lying
on the deck. Now, I am sweet-tempered, but
anything like that annoys me ; so I turned around
and relieved my feelings by kicking it as hard as
I could. Then the bundle rose up and was going
to kick me, but I apologized.
124:
SOUTHERN RAMBLES.
I felt better then. Nothing makes a man
feel so contented as to think over an event of
that kind. Imagine the feelings of a person
I APOI.OOI7K.
who is kicked out of a sound sleep by a stran-
ger, and then to have the stranger apologize in
a most humble manner, so that he can't do any-
thing except swear ! The more the injured party
THE WILDERNESS.
125
thinks it over, the madder he gets; while the
offender, as he muses on the event, experiences
a sense of tranquillity stealing over his senses,
and feels at peace with all the world.
I found Jack asleep on the other side of the
boat, and woke him up to tell him about my
mistake; but he was ungrateful, and wanted to
know why I could n't have kept it until morn-
ing. Jack is peculiar sometimes.
In about an hour I was awakened by the
sound of escaping steam, and learned that the
pilot was sleepy, and they had run the boat
ashore while he took a
nap. Towards morning
we started again, and
arrived at Lake Harney
about daylight. Here we
left the steamboat, and f
rowed ashore to make
a camp and get some
breakfast. While " Bunk " was at work pre-
paring our morning repast, Jack and I took our
guns and started off to see what we could find
126
SOUTHERN" KAMBLES.
in the shape of game, and in a short time pro-
cured a number of snipe, which we found quite
abundant in the vicinity of the lake. Upon our
return to camp we found breakfast all ready and
waiting for us. It was a simple repast, consist-
THE WILDERNESS.
127
ing of pancakes, hard-tack, and coffee ; but what
it lacked in variety, it made tip for in quantity.
I tried the pancakes, but did not like them; they
were too rich. Jack did not seem to appreciate
them any better than I did, so we made our
breakfast of hard-tack. Breakfast over, we
stowed the luggage in the boat; and after
getting in ourselves, there was not much spare
room left. "We found that the boat was loaded
too heavily at the stern to row easily ; but Jack
soon rectified that difficulty by throwing over
the pancakes, which "Bunk" had carefully
packed away for future use as ballast.
CHAPTEK XHI.
DEEP CHEEK.
THERE is a dreamy sense of enjoyment in
floating along with the river in a wild, uninhab-
ited region. The morning dawns slowly, and
the smooth water presents a beautiful appearance,
seemingly covered by a mass of white clouds,
which slowly disappear as the sun rises higher
and higher in the heavens. All nature is fresh
and sweet after its baptism of dew, and a few
remaining drops still sparkle on the leaves as
they sway and rustle in the morning breeze.
The oars are at rest in the boat, and not a sound
disturbs the silence except the occasional song
of some wood bird, singing merrily as it sways
upon the topmost bough of an overhanging tree,
or chirping softly to its mate concealed in the thick
undergrowth. The long Spanish moss hangs in
graceful festoons from the trees, and adds a
DEEP CEEEK. 129
strange beauty to the scenery, which at this part
of the river is often picturesque and grand.
Floating along in this manner, stopping now and
then to knock over a few snipe, or to get a shot
at the ducks, which abound in the small lagoons,
we at last reached the mouth of Deep Creek
and made our camp in its vicinity, as we intended
to explore it the next day. Our bag for the day
had been very good, considering that we had not
spent a great deal of time in shooting. It
included sixteen ducks, two or three teal, and c,
couple of dozen snipe, besides a lot of small
birds, which Jack classified scientifically, and
nearly gave " Bunk " the lockjaw when he tried
to name them after him.
The mosquitoes enjoyed us that night, and
went and gave their friends our address, so that
before morning a large congregation had assem-
bled; and it was only by using quantities of oil
of tar that they were kept at a respectful dis-
tance. "We passed a most uncomfortable night,
and by the time it was fairly light the next
morning, we were in our boat and paddling
130
SOUTHERN RAMBLES.
slowly up the creek. About half a mile from
its mouth it gradually narrows until the over-
hanging trees meet at the top, so that we were
entirely protected from the rays of the sun.
AN UNCOMFORTABLE NIGHT.
Upon rounding a bend, the sound of a heavy
splash ahead of us would reveal the presence of
some large alligator, which had been lying asleep
on the bank, but whose acute senses had detected
our presence before we had reached a point where
he could be seen. Quantities of little alligators
were to be seen along the banks, and stared
DEEP CREEK. 131
stupidly at us as we passed, but the larger ones
were very shy and difficult to obtain a shot at.
While lazily enjoying the constantly chan-
ging scene, Jack suddenly raised his hand, and
pointed at the same time, making a gesture to
signify that we were to keep quiet. Following
the direction of his gaze, I saw two huge wood
ibises standing upon a dead branch about forty
yards distant. They had evidently seen us, and
were just in the act of leaving their perch when
the report of our guns awoke the echoes of the
forest, and they both came to the ground. Little
did we dream of the amount of life which was
lying concealed in that apparently deserted
spot. At the sound of our guns, two large
flocks of white ibises started hurriedly from
their concealment, and circled shrieking over our
heads; from the woods upon our left came the
harsh cries of paroquets; and a heavy crashing
in the bushes just ahead of us told of the pres-
ence of some large animal whose meditations
we had suddenly disturbed. For the next few
minutes, things were lively in that creek; but
132 SOUTHER]^ RAMBLES.
then a sudden silence fell on the scene, and had
DEEP CREEK.
DEEP CREEK. 133
it not been for the dead bodies of the birds float-
GOT HIM.
ing in the water, we might have thought the
134 SOUTHERN RAMBLES.
whole thing to have been a dream. One huge
wood ibis was making off among the bushes,
and Jack jumped ashore and started to catch
him. They both disappeared among the bushes,
but I heard them splashing about in the water
of a small marsh, which was concealed from our
view by the undergrowth. A few more splashes?
and then a cheery voice shouted, "All right;
I Ve got him ! " Another splash or two, and
then, " No, d — n it ; he 's got me ! "
The sounds of a struggle were borne faintly
to my ears, accompanied by exclamations of a
character which showed that somebody was ex-
cited; and a moment after, that somebody ap-
peared upon the scene, in the shape of Jack,
holding the poor ibis in one hand and an enor-
mous club in the other.
The next night we camped near Thorn Hill
Creek, where we found a grove of sweet-lemon
trees, the fruit of which makes a very pleasant
drink. At this point there is a small shanty, in
which we had intended to stop for the night; but
Upon our arrival we found it already occupied by
DEEP CHEEK.
135
a negro and a white man. The latter was lying
upon a bed of blankets in a high fever. He was
delirious most of the time, and during the night
we were entertained by bursts of wild laughter
and snatches of old songs. We passed a most
uncomfortable night, but a little episode oc-
curred towards morning which cheered us up
somewhat. w Bunk " got bitten by a scorpion.
In the morning we held a consultation, and
decided that we had had enough shooting for
the present. Game was plenty, but we had no
136
SOUTHERN RAMBLES.
use for it, and it would be wicked to destroy life
merely for the sake of destroying life. Neither
wished to go back to Enterprise, but we both
agreed that we had better go in that direction.
In the evening we arrived at the hotel.
A few days later we were again on the river,
this time going north. The trip down does
not differ materially from the trip up, except that
the steamer goes a little faster on account of
the current ; and by keeping a tree on shore in
line with some object on the boat, a passenger
may easily tell which way he is going.
DEEP CREEK. 137
"We stopped at Palatka over night, and aston-
ished our systems with a good, substantial meal.
There was a weighing machine in the office, and
Jack and I both weighed ourselves. Jack ate
heartily that night, and his appetite seemed to
have improved the next morning. Just before
leaving I asked him to weigh himself over
again. He did so: he had gained nine pounds.
CHAPTER XIV.
ST. AUGUSTINE.
A SHORT sail brought us to Tocoi, where we
found a train in waiting to convey us to St.
ST. AUGUSTINE. 139
Augustine. During the ride Jack read from his
book, and howled information to me across the car
about the places which were worth seeing in St.
Augustine. The road was rough in some places,
and it was necessary for him to raise his voice to
enable me to hear him. He was in the middle
of a flowery description when we crossed a
bridge ; the noise was deafening, but Jack never
missed a word, and was yelling like a maniac,
when the train suddenly ran on to a smoother
part of the road. An old gentleman seated near
the door arose, looked around hastily, and then
went into a forward car.
^Nothing unusual occurred during the ride, and
we arrived at St. Augustine when the tram did.
"We had been advised to go to the St. Augustine
Hotel, so we went there. There are many things
about a St. Augustine hotel which might be
improved; but then the place is old, very old.
Jack always spoke of it afterwards as a wd — d
old town."
The hotel contained a billiard-room and sev-
eral first-class tables. Jack and I tried a game;
140
SOUTHERIST RAMBLES.
but being somewhat tired with travelling, we
could not drive the balls hard enough against
the cushions to make them rebound, so we gave
,it up and went to bed.
"We visited the cathedral: it is worth seeing,
— everybody says it is. It has an overwhelming
interest to the traveller, for some reason which I
have forgotten ; but I am glad I saw it, for now
when I hear any one talking about the beauty
of the St. Augustine Cathedral, I pity him in
silence. Speaking of cathedrals brings to mind
ST. AUGUSTINE. 141
an incident which occurred in Paris some years
ago. We had been repeatedly advised to go to
the Magdalene and hear the morning service.
A party of four of us decided to go; but we
started late, and when we entered the church the
services had already commenced. I was struck
by the solemn silence of the place; but my medi-
tations were interrupted by an old chap seated
near the door, who stuck out a badly worn paint-
brush as we passed. He had on a little black
velvet cap to keep him from catching cold. We
avoided him and sat down. I observed that sev-
eral other people who came in after us were
treated in the same way, but they were all sold
by the old duifer, for they stuck their fingers in
the brush, and then put them to their noses ; but
they did not seem to like the perfume, for they
all wiped them afterwards in a careless manner
upon their clothes, with a sort of a criss-cross
motion. G asked a grave-looking man next to
him if it was perfume, and was told that it was
" a perfume for the soul." G looked at him
severely, and then relapsed into silence; but he
142
SOUTHERN RAMBLES.
told me in confidence afterwards, that if he had
not wished to avoid disturbing the congregation,
he would have w reached for that party and
mopped the floor with him."
"We watched the proceedings for some time,
and tried to look pious and sanctified; but it
was not very entertaining, — there was a sameness
about it which became tiresome after a time.
Between the acts a tall man in a gorgeous
uniform, carrying in his hand a large cane with
ST. AUGUSTEsT;.
143
a silver ball for a head, passed in and out among
the people, followed by a short, fat party, who
carried a sort of fancy cap in his hand. I
noticed that the people put money into the cap
when it was held out to them. There was a
musty smell about the place, which we were told
was caused by burning incense. I had heard of
incense, and was glad that I had smelt it, for
otherwise I might have bought some some time,
and then I should have been sold. We sat
quietly for about half an hour, and I was just
144 SOUTHERN RAMBLES.
beginning to feel the beautiful solemnity of the
place stealing over my senses, making me feel
sleepy, when G broke the illusion by asking,
w Have n't you had about enough of this ? " "We
filed out, again avoiding the paint-brush. The
boys were very quiet, and seemed to be thinking
of something; perhaps meditating on their past
sins and resolving to do better. I hoped it was
so, but had grave doubts, and did not like to
venture any remarks on the subject.
The day we visited the St. Augustine Cathe-
dral there was no service in progress, but I sat
down on one of the benches and imagined I was
again enjoying the grand services of the old
cathedrals ; the illusion was perfect when I fell
asleep.
We visited Fort Marion, — every one goes
there. Jack read me a description of it on the
way, from a gaudy pamphlet which he had that
morning added to his collection. It ran as
follows: —
* The old fort here is the chief glory of St.
Augustine. For three centuries the coquina
ST. AUGUSTINE.
145
walls of Fort Marion — the modern name of
' San Marco ' — have looked down upon the
bay and the dis-
tant open sea,
the town and
its fading gen-
'erations. Now
the late ten-
ants — the In-
dian prisoners — are gone, it seems more dreary
and sad than ever. Passing the portcullis, we
enter the great court-yard, surrounded by case-
ments, in one or two of which are stacks of old
cannon; to the right is a sloping way leading
to the broad pathway
above, where we look
down into the moat and
water battery with its
heavy guns.
"At the corners are
queer little martello
towers, — sentry boxes
with loop-holes, — and at the far end a larger
146
SOUTHERN RAMBLES.
tower surmounted by a ladder. Below stairs
they show one the dungeon, with its ghostly
legends of imprisoned unfortunates left to die."
We saw the fort, and took a look at the dun-
geons; but we restrained our enthusiasm, and
were calm and self-possessed during our con-
versation with the dirty soldier who showed us
about.
One of the most interesting places which we vis-
ited was the lighthouse on Anastasia Island, which
is in plain view from the hotel. The lighthouse
is painted in alternate
black and white stripes,
resembling a barber's
pole, from a distance.
The keeper is a deter-
mined fellow; and the
beach is lined with the
bones of men who have
gone over there to get
shaved.
"We had been in St. Augustine about a week
when Jack began to get restless. He wanted to
ST. AUGUSTINE.
147
go to Nassau. He had found out that a steamer
was to leave for New Providence the following
week, and he had made up his mind to go ; what
was more, he wanted me to go with him. When
we sat down to breakfast he talked of Nassau ;
during our morning walks he talked of Nassau ;
at dinner, he dwelt upon the tropical climate, and
the splendid fruits to be found there. In the
evening he produced his book, and filled the air
A NATIVE.
with ravings about Nassau. At last he read
a paragraph that settled it. It was the follow-
ing:—
"If there is any such thing as an earthly
sensuous paradise, I should think it might be
found under a banyan-tree in the delicious mid-
148 SOUTHERN RAMBLES.
winter climate of Nassau. This leafy paradise
should be enjoyed in a hammock swung from
the banyan's branches. You can get a very
good manila hammock for fifty cents. A deli-
cious cigar, such as is found here, will help to
intensify the tropical felicity. If that don't do it,
the Cannabis Indica grows within sight, from
which is derived the famous hasheesh, which is
the king of all narcotics in weaving a dreamy
spell about its votaries."
Now, I wanted to see a place where I could
sit under a banyan-tree and look at a " Cannabis
Indica," and I wanted some " hasheesh." I did
not know what w hasheesh " was, but I wanted
some anyway ; so when the hour arrived to go
on board the " Secret," Jack and I were among
the passengers.
For some time after getting under way the
vessel followed the coast ; but in the evening she
turned about and steered boldly eastward. It
was a lovely moonlight night, and Jack and I
were on deck watching the slowly retreating
land. Gradually it faded from our view until we
ST. AUGUSTINE. 149
rolled upon an unbroken sea of white-capped
waves lit up by myriads of animalculse, seeming
on fire as they dashed against the side of the
vessel.
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AT
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